Author Topic: GatLight V3 Thread  (Read 40079 times)

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Offline mobile1

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #30 on: August 16, 2007, 01:50:25 AM »
What is the approximate power draw at the lowest setting?  I'm wondering how long it will run in "night-light" mode

They are all slightly different.... mine for example draws at the lowest level 4.5mA with the battery voltage at 4V - I currently have a RCR123 in there (however voltage was measured not under load). At the cpf battery 123 shoot out you can see that with 0.5A draw you get about 3Wh out of a 123 battery. Now with such a low draw (much less than 0.5A) you likely get more. But conservatively if we take 3Wh and divide it by (0.0045mA*4V) = 166h so you get about 6.94 days - or roughly a week of continuous on on a new cell at the lowest setting. The highest brightness setting with a 123 gives you a bit less than an hour.

So you can smoothly select your runtime (and equivalent brightness) between 1h and 1 week...
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Offline mobile1

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #31 on: August 16, 2007, 02:03:37 AM »
ooops I just saw that batteries at 0.5A can have more than 4Wh.... so that would put the GatLight runtime  (of serial number 123 which I tested) at the lowest setting at roughly about 10+ days....  :thumbup:
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Offline SCamp

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #32 on: August 18, 2007, 08:08:54 PM »
Should I go V3 or wait for the new EOS      ;)

Offline Steve Stephens

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #33 on: August 20, 2007, 03:59:10 PM »
Get the V3 while it's still available and then work more to buy an EOS too.

Steve
CMG & Gerb IU; FenixL1/P1; Peak Matterhor/Kilmanja/Caribbe/Pacif/McKinRGB; Jil DD; LionCub-blk,nat,brass;Cham/Dam Cham; FF III; CR2 Ions; McLux III-PD/Ti-PD; RAW NS/Ti/DA; Neoca BL brass/Ni; SPY005; HDS B42XRGT;Lambda AAA; Firefli;Exolion SS; Gatlight V3. Coming?:AWR Nano; Firefly-III exotics

Offline mobile1

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #34 on: August 20, 2007, 06:15:47 PM »
Should I go V3 or wait for the new EOS      ;)

Well they're both very unique lights. The Gat will probably be the most unique light you'll ever buy - and if you ever show your collection to friends the light they point at first will be the Gatlight. Also the Gat's are very unique by how they feel in your hand. With the smooth bars they're simply awesome to hold. Also the way the design looks, the machining is really cool. And it's just fun to have a light that's not your standard cylinder.

The EOS will be still a little while until than one happens. It is a more traditional light with the normal cylinder body - and next to a GatLight people will still want to grab the GatLight. However the EOS is quite a bit smaller, fits in your pocket where you don't even notice it.

Both lights have the same easy UI brightness control and honestly they're both different lights.

I can show the Eos to Steve... since he is in the SF north bay as well next time he stops by... and you can ask him..
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Offline mobile1

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #35 on: August 20, 2007, 10:12:41 PM »
A note to everyone who has a GatLight

We finally found the best solution regarding lubrication of the knob. For those who ordered first they got their GatLights with a very unique special ORING lubrication.. intended to make the knob operation easier. Unfortunately it turned out to be the worst lubricant you can think off, it hardens after a while (which we didn't notice since we tested it right after we put it on) so then when it is hard it is very hard to turn and it turns non conductive. Of course non of that was written on the label... according to the label it is the perfect ORing lubricant... but quite honestly it sucks even for that.

So those who got that lubricant on their lights we suggested to clean the threads and completely remove that lubricant.

However we still wanted a lubricant to work with the ORing and get maximum conductivity on the threads - even though the threads don't need a lubricant because the knob thread is a self lubricating alloy. However we purchased the most conductive lubricant you can find - it basically is ground up silver... and costs a FORTUNE. So we decided to also put that lubricant onto the threads - we figured even though its not needed it can't hurt. The result was it worked... so we shipped the next batch out containing that silver lubricant.

However we than found out that the IDEAL solution is to NOT put any lubricant onto the threads, and just put a little bit of the silver (or any other lubricant) onto the ORing but none onto the threads. For some reason it works the best... very smooth operation.

So if you got your GatLight with one of these lubricants on the threads if you remove the lubricant from the threads it improves the function. The best way to remove the lubricants from the threads I found is to take a paper tissue, remove the knob and the ORing on the knob... than put the tissue around your finger and put the finger nail into thread - at the end of it. Than rotate the thread so your fingernail (with the tissue) moves from the end of the thread - where the battery makes contact to the beginning of the thread. Repeat this process a couple of times. Than wipe off the threads on the light. Than screw in the knob again and out and re-clean the threads with the fingernail technique. Also clean the lubrication in the grove where the ORing goes. Than put a little bit of lubrication (either the silver stuff if your gat came with that - or your own one - don't use the clear lubricant of the first batch Gats) onto the ORing and make sure none of it gets onto the threads. Than put the knob back in and your Gat will work like a champ....  especially if you do this with a first batch light it's a major difference.

Again sorry for us not figuring this out earlier...  or better not testing that ORing Lubricant - However we're glad that this is fairly easy to do.

Than by the way we donated a GatLight for a good cause... so anyone wanting to win a GatLight please look at this thread here:
http://flashlight-forums.com/index.php?topic=5232.0
« Last Edit: August 20, 2007, 10:17:50 PM by mobile1 »
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Offline Amorphous

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #36 on: August 21, 2007, 02:30:38 AM »
Walter / Kyle,

The original lub is definitely casuing the tight and stickiness on the initial turn.

I took out the O-ring completely, and used semi-conductive lub ( Nyogel 759G ) on the threads and it work like a champ. ( at the expense of giving up the waterproofing feature)
I am also suggesting if you guys can come up with a way to separate/isolate the sealing O-ring (not depending the O-ring as a mean to create knob friction), and the knob/threading friction will solve some of the issues.
« Last Edit: August 21, 2007, 02:48:06 AM by Amorphous »
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Offline mobile1

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #37 on: August 21, 2007, 04:03:52 AM »
....
I am also suggesting if you guys can come up with a way to separate/isolate the sealing O-ring (not depending the O-ring as a mean to create knob friction), and the knob/threading friction will solve some of the issues.

I think generally the less/no lube on the threads the better the performance. The reason is that the threads are fairly lose (to get the least amount of friction) and as such there seems to be more room for lubrication to stay in the threads - as a result the current has to go through the lubrication rather than metal to metal. My test with the pure silver lube (which is probably as conductive as possible) kind of showed that no matter what lube you put in there, it doesn't beat bare metal on metal - as a result I ended up removing the silver lubricant again from many units and just use it on the ORing and it seems to work great. That silver lubricant is more like a grease. Also the fact that we used sintered bronze which is self lubricating with Titanium (no galling) doesn't require any lubrication. And in the tux, the non black parts have a special coating (which is why the Tux inside has the gold color) to prevent oxidization.

The Oring kind of needs to be there to water seal the battery compartment - unless you see another way to do this without having the friction of the ORing. I didn't understand how you would separate/isolate the sealing ORing without getting the friction of the ORing when rotating the knob? I'd love to not have the friction of the O-Ring but Kyle thought the only way to water seal the light would be to use a water sealing lubricant, much tighter tolerances on the threads (which however increases friction)... the problem though is that if that lubricant comes off - water sealing is gone. The ORing is a pretty permanent solution which I prefer. However if there is another permanent solution - by ?isolating the sealing Oring? I'd be curious to know how that could be done?
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Offline arewethereyetdad

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #38 on: August 25, 2007, 10:42:15 PM »
Just placed my order for an all-Ti V3!   :D :hello2: :woot: :fingerdance:

Offline Lips

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #39 on: August 27, 2007, 12:23:47 PM »



Gatlight saw some action on a shoot-out last night!




Gatlight vs McGizmo PD - S




.
Fire Foxes FF4 in stock and ready to ship.
You can send me a PM me here at site or contact me directly at FireFoxes@comcast.net for information.
Prices and info at the top of this post:
http://flashlight-forums.com/index.php?topic=13795.0

Offline Rudi

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #40 on: August 27, 2007, 02:44:53 PM »
Do all V3-Gattlights  momentarily overshoot the selected intensity when cranking it up any faster than very slowly, or is this a peculiarity of mine?

Offline mobile1

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #41 on: August 27, 2007, 05:20:29 PM »
Do all V3-Gattlights  momentarily overshoot the selected intensity when cranking it up any faster than very slowly, or is this a peculiarity of mine?
Hi Rudi it depends on the duration of that overshoot. If it's only a split second and barely noticeable, this is normal and it has to do with the buck/boost chip balancing the changing current demand, with the battery that supplies the current at fast decreasing voltage (battery voltage drop due to high current) which the buck/boost chip has to balance out (often switching from buck to boost mode)...  and on top of that the LED heats up too when you change brightness which has an impact too. If this behavior is prolonged and longer than half or quarter second than that would be unusual. In that case send me a pm and we can replace it.
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Offline fläshgreëniè

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #42 on: August 27, 2007, 05:52:44 PM »
Just placed my order for an all-Ti V3!   :D :hello2: :woot: :fingerdance:

What??? you didn't get three this time  :evil6:

Offline Rudi

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #43 on: August 27, 2007, 06:53:40 PM »
Do all V3-Gattlights  momentarily overshoot the selected intensity when cranking it up any faster than very slowly, or is this a peculiarity of mine?
Hi Rudi it depends on the duration of that overshoot. If it's only a split second and barely noticeable, this is normal and it has to do with the buck/boost chip balancing the changing current demand, with the battery that supplies the current at fast decreasing voltage (battery voltage drop due to high current) which the buck/boost chip has to balance out (often switching from buck to boost mode)...  and on top of that the LED heats up too when you change brightness which has an impact too. If this behavior is prolonged and longer than half or quarter second than that would be unusual. In that case send me a pm and we can replace it.

Thanks for the explanation, from which it seems like my light's behavior is normal.

Offline chakrawal

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Re: GatLight V3 Thread
« Reply #44 on: September 01, 2007, 08:31:19 AM »
Could not order. Something is wrong with the website. When I pressed add to cart, it showed 503 Service Temporarily Unavailable. How can I order Gatlight V3 TI?