Author Topic: FiveMega Custom 1D Light  (Read 13348 times)

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Offline Lips

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #30 on: March 21, 2007, 04:48:12 AM »
I had trouble using the 16 ga wire with battery holders that have the charging jack through the center. Hard to solder and hard to get out of the way...

Andrew did you double the Braid when you measured. May have less resistance than 1 strand...
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Offline LuxLuthor

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #31 on: March 21, 2007, 10:33:55 AM »
I still cannot figure out how that top spring mod is done...in terms of what is soldered from AWR's images.

Offline andrewwynn

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #32 on: March 22, 2007, 04:51:46 AM »
are you talking about this mod?

and in particular


This picture?

It actually is an earlier version of the mod.. where i still utilized the cups at the top n bottom of the spring..

anyhow there are a couple ways to do this mod:

1) exactly as shown here... where a coil of very flexible copper wire is spiraled the opposite direction from the spring (very important so it doesn't stick out and cause a direct short on a grounded part).. and it soldered to the top and  bottom cup.. look at the 'mod link' above and go step by step and read the captions..

2) solder a very flexible wire to ONLY the top cup of the spring.. feed the wire down through the spring and out the base of the PR as shown in this pic:



Than that wire (black and white in the picture) gets fed through the hole next to the ground strap and is soldered directly to the top of the switch contact itself.. shown in this picture:



with this add'l information.. go double-check the prfix and see if you undersatand now.

oops missed Lips' questions..

1) i used one braid but it was thick.. probably only 24ga or so though.. flat wire is not super heavy-duty.. double strands will half the resistance.. i wouldn't re-do a double-stranded fix like you describe.. even just 1 strand is enough to make it worth it.. but if 1 strand is 9mohm 2 will be 4.5.. with 16ga wire it is 1.3 mohm.. and it's easire to do the mod as well.. definitely a win-win.. i did my first mod with solder wick.. i now only use 16ga KIU kit leftovers ( i have them coming out of my ears ).. and they are the perfect solution..

you can avoid the bat-pack problem by soldering below the top spiral.. once the wires are all touching each other.. the effective resistance drops to nil... e.g. if soldered like this:


(new style spring)..

You could solder below the 4th loop in the spring vs on the top to get 100% clearance and probably not make the resistance go over 2mohm.. a negligible difference in the resistance due to the massive parallel wires.. it wouldn't hurt to put some pro-gold between each spring leaf or even just solder them.. make sure you sand the crap out of what you want to solder.

oh.. just for funn... check out this abused tailcap spring and see what 35mohm of resistance does when the maximum current is pushed through it.. it must have gotten cherry hot to deform it:



oh and yeah.. the battery cells weren't all too happy about that either.. as you can see.. moral of that story.. don't dead-short a 12xCBP pack.

-awr
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Offline Lips

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #33 on: March 22, 2007, 05:23:09 AM »
Lux that's what I was talking about in Andrews first pic.  I did mine just like that...



Ok, I like the newer method of bypassing the bottom cup. Thanks for that tip  :D


On the battery and spring -  I'm talking about the holders that have the charging jack going through the center of the spring. Not talking about where the holder hits the spring. A pack with this type of charging jack is not going through that spring with the 16gauge wire you have shown. It wouldn't make it... Some of the FM holders are fat and some are skinny at the charging end. On the fat ones you have very little room on the inside of the spring...


Cheers

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Offline LuxLuthor

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #34 on: March 24, 2007, 05:25:50 AM »
AWR & Lips, yeah, I always understood the #1 wire inside of the top spring soldered to inside of top and bottom spring holder caps.

I'm still not quite following the 2nd one because you can't see what it is soldered to in the spring/caps from #1...then I'm not sure how if the wire is soldered to the inside of the top cap, is it threaded down through the spring, and just pulled out between the spring coils before reaching the bottom cap? (This picture I can't figure out where wire is coming from inside the slot

I don't understand what this loop is doing or where it goes.  If that same loop is now down through a small hole in the plastic and soldered to the top contact, I'm not seeing the loop.

Now you see the black and other wires, which I saw from previous images soldered to removed blue switch contacts, but I'm not sure where they are going in this image because you can't see inside the slot.

I can't tell what is soldered to what in this image, and what is going on with the bare wire inside the switch.  I can also see that there is a wire coming down into the bottom of the whole switch assembly, and soldered to the (+) battery contact spring.  I don't see where that wire is coming from...and which is not shown in your pictures.

Offline andrewwynn

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #35 on: March 24, 2007, 06:39:53 AM »
the spring-cups solution was the 'older version'... in a newer solution i will solder a very flexible wire up through the spring but on the bottom solder it to the black/white wire..

The first hyperlink goes to the picture of the ground wire.. that mystery loop is attached underneath the roller wheel which comes off with the same tool you remove the switch from the light (5/64 or 2mm hex).

All of the 'round bare wire' stuff is the negative which goes from the little loop on the wheel to the ground strap.. the black and white wire goes from the top of the switch (contact on blue plastic).. around to the bottom of the spring.. soldered inside to the solderwick type wire through the spring (but at the bottom to allow for motion).

In the last image where you can't see what is going on.. ignore any of the 'tiny wires' they were just for measuring the resistances after the fix... the bare wire is soldered to the ring that is attached to the nut (which has been cut to make room for the black n white wire.. the black n white wire is soldered to the top of the blue plastic switch.. to the top contact.

Below the blue plastic in the hole below the nut is another piece of wire and breaking with tradition it is bare not covered, but that is a directly wired piece of 16ga copper wire that goes from the bottom switch contact to the battery spring on the other side (through a hole drilled for such a purpose).. the contact is made on the tip of the spring not the base.. to eliminate the spring resistance there as well.. sorry i missed the description of that part i think.

-awr


ps.. important followup:



regarding this picture... the loop (made from 24ga wire) must be continued into an ? shape around the circle and back onto itself for strength.. the original design here will not hold up to enough cycles through focus range. The loop would go up from the fat wire, around in the circle which fits under the roller (you will figure out if you take it apart where it can fit tight and w/o binding the roller).. than comes back down parallel and back to the fat wire... soldering the whole length.

That whole part is brass.. you can actually clean off some chrome with a dremel wheel and with enough heat solder to it from what i've heard.. but this is clean and elegant... make sure that there is clearance and nothing catches or binds through the full range of motion.. including the reflector stem that it doesn't catch!

-awr
« Last Edit: March 24, 2007, 06:45:44 AM by andrewwynn »
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Offline LuxLuthor

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #36 on: March 27, 2007, 07:39:35 AM »
I'm still not exactly sure what is going on every step, but it seems like too much work for the benefit.  I might do that single wire inside the top spring from bottom to top cap...but thanks for the additional details.

Here are some pictures I took comparing the 3" heads on various lights.

Offline Geologist

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #37 on: March 27, 2007, 07:56:39 AM »
Nice pics of all your FM heads!
Dragon, Ti, and Classic Chammies, Blk, Bare, & Brass LCs, Blk & Bare LHs, X990, Rayzorlite, The Torch, Mag85, MagGH24, SF C3, C2, 6P, G2, & Winelights, Peak Caribbean, Pacific, McKinnleys, + more , Exolion Ti, Orb Raw NS, SS Gatlight, Eternalights, Nuwai QIII, Inova X5THAs, X1, ARCs, + more?

Offline andrewwynn

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #38 on: March 27, 2007, 11:00:22 PM »
the single wire through the middle will drop the resistance to less than half the initial (80mohm from 160-180).. adding the external wires drops it to about 35-40mohm.. less than half again.
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Offline Lips

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #39 on: March 29, 2007, 12:34:51 PM »



This turned out pretty good so decided to share...








I gotta get a digital camera that has TTL bounce flash capabilities...
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Offline LuxLuthor

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #40 on: March 31, 2007, 08:34:36 AM »
What is unique about those three lights?  I'm not sure what I should be noticing.

Offline Geologist

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #41 on: March 31, 2007, 09:27:28 AM »
What is unique about those three lights?  I'm not sure what I should be noticing.

They are special since I don't own any of them!  So many lights ! 

Nice pic Lips - perhaps as a quick fix for the flash is to get an inexpensive slave flash to orient as required, and then put a piece of 35mm film over the exisiting flash.  Enough light well escape to trigger the slave and should achieve good results.
« Last Edit: March 31, 2007, 08:56:54 PM by Geologist »
Dragon, Ti, and Classic Chammies, Blk, Bare, & Brass LCs, Blk & Bare LHs, X990, Rayzorlite, The Torch, Mag85, MagGH24, SF C3, C2, 6P, G2, & Winelights, Peak Caribbean, Pacific, McKinnleys, + more , Exolion Ti, Orb Raw NS, SS Gatlight, Eternalights, Nuwai QIII, Inova X5THAs, X1, ARCs, + more?

Offline LuxLuthor

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #42 on: March 31, 2007, 08:46:15 PM »
Oh yeah well from just the photography aspect, it is great...and the lights themselves are great..but I was thinking he was trying to point out some feature of those 3.  OK nevermind then.

Offline trailboss

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #43 on: May 23, 2007, 06:30:57 PM »
I was fortunate to get in on FiveMega's last offer of a D sized custom running 6 RCR123 at 7.4V. I put a FM cammed reflector, borofloat lense, gold ceramic bi-pin and a WA1111 bulb. To my eye, looks very close to my Mag85. A bit less perhaps, but hardly noticable. A very nice carry size for evening walks. Fits perfectly in my barn coat pocket.


Offline Aircraft800

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Re: FiveMega Custom 1D Light
« Reply #44 on: May 24, 2007, 01:42:09 AM »
Here's what he means:






Sorry about being a late comer to this thread, but DAM Is that a sharp set of Hotwires!!! I am really jealous! :drool: :drool: