Author Topic: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.  (Read 14428 times)

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Offline tonyd

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #30 on: July 23, 2006, 11:54:07 PM »
I tried the UXOJ and it seems to work great, although I do have a 150A hooked to it.

Offline 45/70

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #31 on: July 24, 2006, 01:07:41 AM »
I just think that even at CT4/5 you may be pushing a lot more power through the Chammie board due to the higher Vf.....

Actually, on paper anyway, CT4/5 with a J Vf bin should be less than a H Vf bin on CT5/5.  Figure a J Vf bin is going to draw about 13% more power through the board than a H vf bin.  That is just taking an average J Vf and an average H Vf, YMMV.  Both however are pushing the board beyond spec.  A lot of electronic components can do that.  Of course their design specs don't support doing so, yet some can.

Charlie doesn't support doing it and George wasn't too keen on the CT5/5 with the H Vf bin to start with.  I don't blame either of them for saying "don't do it!".  This is definitely hot rodding here.  :)

I tried the UXOJ and it seems to work great, although I do have a 150A hooked to it.

tonyd, did you have any heat issues?  What table/levels did you try and for how long?  Did it blow up?  8)  Obviously not, I think you would have told us!  :D

Being a fully regulated board, the 150A won't make any difference.  It will run the same with a RCR123A as with a 168A.  It will only affect runtime.

Keep us posted!  :thumbup:

Dave
Eveready Economy Bright Light w/PR4 and "Heavy Duty" batteries

Offline Bullzeyebill

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #32 on: July 24, 2006, 06:07:48 AM »
At LAST.  Someone has tried "it". :thumbup:  Waiting for a response from tonyd.  Wonder if tonyd has a lightmeter and has done some bounce tests with his "superlight". :D

Bill

Offline Geologist

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #33 on: July 24, 2006, 06:52:56 AM »
:popcorn:
Dragon, Ti, and Classic Chammies, Blk, Bare, & Brass LCs, Blk & Bare LHs, X990, Rayzorlite, The Torch, Mag85, MagGH24, SF C3, C2, 6P, G2, & Winelights, Peak Caribbean, Pacific, McKinnleys, + more , Exolion Ti, Orb Raw NS, SS Gatlight, Eternalights, Nuwai QIII, Inova X5THAs, X1, ARCs, + more?

Offline Kenster

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #34 on: July 24, 2006, 09:42:44 AM »
I am soldering in a UX0J as soon as I post this. I have a Meter Man light meter too! 8)

Be back shortly! :thumbup:

Offline Geologist

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #35 on: July 24, 2006, 09:44:15 AM »
:popcorn:
Dragon, Ti, and Classic Chammies, Blk, Bare, & Brass LCs, Blk & Bare LHs, X990, Rayzorlite, The Torch, Mag85, MagGH24, SF C3, C2, 6P, G2, & Winelights, Peak Caribbean, Pacific, McKinnleys, + more , Exolion Ti, Orb Raw NS, SS Gatlight, Eternalights, Nuwai QIII, Inova X5THAs, X1, ARCs, + more?

Offline Kenster

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #36 on: July 24, 2006, 10:52:55 AM »
Here is some lousy pics so you know I did it. :-[


Funny how the Star came off.


The first pic was so bad I used a different Star. Second pic sucked anyway. :rolleye:


My Meterman Meter at 3 feet on high in the 3rd mode read 130 Lux on X10 and went to 143 with the UX0J Star. Does that make any sense to anyone? :dontknow: I am a "Newbie" around these parts! :-[

Nothing to hoot and howler about anyway. :P

Dang pics took forever to upload on dial up! >:(
« Last Edit: July 24, 2006, 10:58:25 AM by Kenster »

Offline HarryN

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #37 on: July 24, 2006, 11:48:59 AM »
Hi Kenster - nice work.  So you gained about 10 % by the change - not bad for a mod.  We should have recommended to the "tester" to burn in the LED for 24 hours at 1 amp before installing it, (to lower the Vf a tad more) but your work is just fine.

I have worked really hard in the past to gain 10 % more lux - every photon counts.   :thumbup:

Offline Kenster

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #38 on: July 24, 2006, 11:59:35 AM »
I am going to run a few batteries through it before I use it on high for any length of time. I think the vf will come down that way. I have it running right now. It read 3.32volts on mode 3 high. I`ll check it again later.

Offline tonyd

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #39 on: July 24, 2006, 02:11:56 PM »
I vary the run on tables but typically 4/4 or 5/4. Light will run for extended periods with no real heat issues. I have debated using a copper sink but have not had the need. A quick bump to the 5/5 level runs fine also. As I said regulated board or not the light will not work with a R123 with this setup but works fine with the 150A. Not sure why. To bad we'll have to suffer with the dammy and no 150 dam tube.

Offline 45/70

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #40 on: July 24, 2006, 03:37:00 PM »
Funny how the Star came off.

Yeah, that's not good at all!  People have a tendency to use too much paste but, that's a little too "sparingly"!

Good job Kenster!  That's what we're looking for!   :headbang:

As I said regulated board or not the light will not work with a R123 with this setup but works fine with the 150A. Not sure why.

That's odd?  Maybe I'll have to take back what I said?  You're not by any chance running 3 volt voltage reduced RCR123s, are you?  My CubMeleon doesn't like those.  It'll run but, only for a second on the higher levels before the board shuts things down.  I use Powerizer 3.6 volt RCR123s normally.  In SilverFox's testing, they did seem to do well under load.

Keep up the good work tonyd!   :thumbsup:  And keep us posted!

We should have recommended to the "tester" to burn in the LED for 24 hours at 1 amp before installing it

I'm sure glad somebody else is doing this and not me!   :naughty:

Dave
Eveready Economy Bright Light w/PR4 and "Heavy Duty" batteries

Offline tonyd

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #41 on: July 24, 2006, 04:02:49 PM »
You are right, I am running the 3 V R123's. I have so many cameras and other lights that can only handle the 3V version that I only own 3.7 V in the 150A. But the UXOJ I have work great in the chammy, and will likly convert my dammy when I get it.

Offline Kenster

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #42 on: July 24, 2006, 07:57:58 PM »
I am running a protected RCR123 and it seems to work fine so far on table 3 with the UX0J. I may try the higher tables later if the vf comes down a bit more after running it a while. The vf has dropped from 3.32 volts to 3.25 volts so far on table 3 high after running one battery cycle. It is running with a second battery now.

Offline Geologist

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #43 on: July 24, 2006, 08:31:48 PM »
I know I may sound like a dummie - how do you  measure/monitor Vf? 
Dragon, Ti, and Classic Chammies, Blk, Bare, & Brass LCs, Blk & Bare LHs, X990, Rayzorlite, The Torch, Mag85, MagGH24, SF C3, C2, 6P, G2, & Winelights, Peak Caribbean, Pacific, McKinnleys, + more , Exolion Ti, Orb Raw NS, SS Gatlight, Eternalights, Nuwai QIII, Inova X5THAs, X1, ARCs, + more?

Offline 45/70

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Re: Anyone try a U bin in Chameleon, yet.
« Reply #44 on: July 24, 2006, 09:47:48 PM »
I know I may sound like a dummie - how do you  measure/monitor Vf? 

Well, I would assume (uh oh!  :o ) that you would check the voltage across the + and - on the star but, then again, this idea comes FROM a dummie!  :D

The vf has dropped from 3.32 volts to 3.25 volts so far on table 3 high after running one battery cycle.

Those voltages seem kinda low for a J bin.

Dave
« Last Edit: July 24, 2006, 09:53:36 PM by 45/70 »
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